It’s in our eyes, our ears, our mouths, our nose… India’s incredible culture is everywhere! The people, the traffic, the noise, the food… There is no doubt that India is so very different from anywhere we’ve been thus far. Incredible India is the slogan used to promote tourism to the country, and the catch phrase couldn’t be more accurate. However, I’m ashamed to admit that both Austin and I had mixed feelings as we looked forward to arriving to India. In fact, we sort of dreaded the unknowns it presented. We had been told by many to expect total chaos, and being a little burnt out, we weren’t sure we were equipped mentally to do so. We were also told that we could almost absolutely expect tummy trouble, which of course put me a little on edge. My recent run in with a parasite was still fresh in my mind, and I dreaded the possibility of further complications. However, even with all our fears, I am happy to report that more than 2/3’s into our time here, and India has blown us away! I’m glad we persevered and decided to experience this incredible country for ourselves. The food has been amazing, the people fantastic, the sites and history fascinating. And, the chaos! It’s not something you can prepare for, but it really is something one just has to see and experience for themselves. In this blog entry I’m going to report on the first half of our time here which has taken us from the capital of Delhi, south by car to Jaipur, and then by car east to Agra - the city of love and the home of the Taj Mahal.
Delhi, like most capital cities, was overflowing with people. Having a population of 13 million, I had never been to a place so populated. The sights, sounds, and people of India have fascinated Austin and I. Here are a look as some of the things we’ve seen since arriving, that we feel really visualize what we makes India so unique…
Street cleaners make piles of garbage that is to be picked up later. It seems that the piles are never actually picked up. That’s okay, the stray dogs and cows wouldn’t have much to eat otherwise…
They can transport anything and everything by bicycle and motorbike… ANYTHING!
When buying bottled water from street venders it’s necessary to make sure the cap is sealed before buying. It’s not uncommon for used bottles to be collected and refilled. There’s a warning on each bottled to crush after using in effort to help prevent re-usage.
It is quite common to see camels pulling carts with supplies or camped out on the side of the road…
Two tuk-tuk drivers anxiously awaiting customers…
The streets are busy with everything from people, to cows, to camels, monkeys and dogs, to bicycles, motorbikes, trucks, cars, buses, and tuk-tuks, going any which way they please. The only rule of the road in India is that there are no rules!
Peasant women in traditional saris…
Monkeys are seen EVERYWHERE…
Camel n’ cart…
A look at another Indian man with a unique turban tie, who got us with his friendly “oh hello, would you like to take a picture?,” then of course demands a tip…
Aside from swelling with people, Delhi did boast a lot of history and many sites worth seeing. We started our first day by visiting the Lotus Temple, a place of worship for Delhi’s Bahai followers. As the name reveals, the temple is shaped like a lotus flower. We were unable to go inside, because like many of the temples in the city, this temple closes one day a week for cleaning and ground maintenance, and we happened to view it on the day of the week it’s closed. We were glad to get a glimpse, as it was interesting architecture and reminded us of the Sydney Opera House. Have a look…
There are many religions in India, but there are three that are prominent. The most popular is of course Hinduism, followed by Muslim, and then Christianity. These three religions are also represented on India’s national flag. There is an orange stripe to represent Hinduism, a green stripe to represent Muslim, and a white stripe to represent Christianity. So, with that information, it is fitting that our next sightseeing was done at Jama Masjid of Delhi, India’s largest mosque. The building of Jama Masjid of Delhi was commissioned by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, the same man who commissioned the building of the Taj Mahal, and was completed in the year 1656 AD. We were told that on Friday, when the mosque is closed to tourists, thousands of Muslims come to pray. In fact, we were told that the courtyard of the mosque can hold up to twenty-five thousand worshippers.
Jama Masjid was the first spot we visited where we were required to remove our shoes. We weren’t prepared and therefore had to walk around barefoot. That wouldn’t have been so bad, except that there were pigeons everywhere, which of course meant there was pigeon droppings covering almost every inch of the ground (or so it seemed). I had the pleasure of stepping in a fresh patch of pigeon poo… yay! I know it’s good luck if one poops on you, but I’m not so sure it has the same connotation if you step in a nice fresh patch with bare feet. Here’s to hoping! Either way, we learned our lesson and were prepared on our subsequent days of touring temples. While at Jama Masjid, we were also provided with robes, as women had to be completely covered, and men can’t have their knees showing. It was only our first day in India, and we were learning quickly about Indian customs. Here are some pictures from our visit to Jama Masjid…
Austin and I standing in the courtyard in our frock…
Next we visited Delhi’s Raj Ghat National Memorial, the last resting place of India’s infamous Mahatma Gandhi. In India, Gandhi is referred to as the Father of the Nation, as he fought peacefully and relentlessly for the freedom of Indian people, who at the time where under an oppressive rule by Britain. The cremation of Mahatma Gandhi took place at the Delhi Raj Ghat, on 31st January 1948. The memorial stone of Mahatma Gandhi stands in the place where he was cremated. There is a simple square platform made of black stone, with the words "Hey Ram" inscribed on it. These were his last words and can roughly be translated to “God Bless”. Also at the memorial site, as homage to the Mahatma, an eternal flame in a copper urn continues to burn. Every Friday, a remembrance ceremony takes place at this site. In India, the 30th January, the day Mahatma Gandhi was assassinated is remembered as Martyr's Day. While we were here there was a score of local school kids visiting. Our guide informed us that school classes come as often as once a week with the intention of keeping the lessons of Ghandi alive. Here a picture of the memorial and eternal flame…
After our time at the memorial park we made our way to visit the Victorian style buildings of President’s House, where the Indian government offices are housed. Armed guards stand out from of the gates and entrances of each building with huge rifles. If someone runs past, or walks onto the property without going through the gate check, they are shot on the spot, no questions asked. Yikes! Here is a picture of President’s House…
Finally we visited Qutb Minar, a tower made of red and buff sandstone that stands 73 meters high and is the world’s tallest brick minaret. It is known as being one of the earliest and most prominent examples of Indo-Islamic architecture. The tower is surrounded by several other ancient and medieval structures and ruins that are collectively referred to as the Qutub Complex. We found the tower and surrounding buildings striking.
Take a look for yourself…
We used the camera’s panorama function to get a picture of the entire structure with Austin at the base. The tower isn’t actually skewed the way is seems in this picture…
Peek-a-boo!
This was our last stop on our tour of Delhi. It had been a whirlwind and we were only just being introduced to this captivating country.
The day after we toured Delhi, we set out from our hotel with our driver, Vikram, bound for Jaipur. Jaipur was an approximate 5 hour drive from Delhi. Along the way we saw beautiful countryside. We passed through villages in which the people live a very simple life. I don’t mean simple as in easy, I mean simple as in the fact that running water, technology and machinery, and even electricity are not necessarily a part of their every day life. Each village shares a well and pump and residents commonly make a living working farms, using bulls as the only advantage for heavy loads and hard work. They grow wheat or mustard seed in the winter and rice in the wet season. Either way, without the benefits of modern living, people in these villages work long, hard hours for not very much pay.
On our drive from Delhi to Jaipur, we were invited to stop at the home of our driver, Vikram. His family lives in the village, and on the farmland where Vikram grew up. We were invited in for tea and met his wife who takes care of his two children, a boy 10 and a girl 14, and who also looks after their farm. We also met his older brother, sister-in-law, and his niece, who live on the same land, but in a different dwelling right next door. Because Vikram works as a driver for a company out of Delhi, he doesn’t get home very often. Only on holidays, and when he is driving this particular route, and the tourists he is escorting decide that they would like to stop and meet his family and see his farm and house. Vikram’s house was finished being built only recently. It was a beautiful! Marble floors and running water, Vikram told us that it took 5 years to build and many more years of hard work to finance. It’s too bad that he gets home so infrequently to enjoy such a peaceful, beautiful spot. He told us he has never fully adjusted to the hustle and bustle of the city. We can’t say we blame him. We admired how much he was willing to sacrifice for his family to ensure his children would have a lifestyle and get the education he did not. Here are a few pictures from our visit…
His beautiful home… (You can see swastikas are painted above the doorway, this is a good luck symbol for Hindis, not a Nazi symbol)…
The view from the roof top…
This bull and I became buddies…
Me with Vikram and his wife…
After our visit to Vikram’s farm, we were back on the road headed for Jaipur. We had one more planned stop on our way at The Neemrana Fort-Palace which is situated on a majestic plateau concealed in a horseshoe formation of the Aravali ranges, which are considered the oldest fold mountains in the world. The fort-palace rises to nine levels and dates back to 1464 AD. Today the property covers 25 acres, serves as a hotel, and is India's oldest heritage resort. Neemrana is the closest palace to India's capital of Delhi.
A look at how the palace (now hotel/resort) is built into the side of the mountain…
This place was a maze and Aus and I enjoyed getting lost numerous times!
Taking in the views…
After a look around the palace grounds, we were again back on the road, headed for Jaipur. By mid-afternoon we arrived and were entranced by the city. Very much a metropolis in population, Jaipur’s history and culture were evident immediately and was in sharp contrast to Delhi, which in comparison was a very modern city. As we entered the city we passed Amber Fort, which dates backs to 1592. We also past through the old city gates, where the the pink painted walls and narrow streets were further glimpses into the cities’ intricate and long history.
We got settled into our hotel and had the chance to freshen up before heading out for dinner, which also included entertainment. Before dinner entertainment was found at the restaurants adjacent Turban Museum. It may sound a tad dry, but it was quite an eye opener to learn that there are SO many different turbans. The colour, size, and the way it’s wrapped are indications of many different things. For example, different turbans are worn by different castes, and are different for people depending on the region they come from. Special turbans are worn for big events such as weddings, or for morning a family member. Who knew! Though I am far from an expert, this is just another way in which my eyes have been pried open. With every destination I feel I am learning and therefore can better understand and appreciate.
After our turban tour we sat down to have another amazing Indian meal, and this one was accompanied by traditional Indian dancers and musicians. I can’t say I’ve found my ear for appreciating Indian singers, but the musicians absolutely loved what they were doing, and it’s always fun to see people loving and enjoying what they do. It made for an evening of great entertainment. As expected, Austin and I have been thoroughly enjoying Indian cuisine. We have always loved it, and this is one aspect of our trip to India that we really looked forward to. As I mentioned, we were a bit weary as we had been warned about infamous Delhi-Belly. However, being careful and making smart choices means eating has been a pleasure that has yet to have any repercussions. We have been sticking to a vegetarian diet. We figured, why not?! The vegetarian curry choices are ample and they are just as delicious and we feel that staying away from meat only betters our chances of steering clear of Delhi-Belly. We had high expectations for the food in India and it has not disappointed. Here are some pictures of the dancers on our first evening out in Jaipur…
The dancer in the background is dancing while balancing numerous clay pots on her head… colour me impressed!
Austin was again persuaded to join the ladies on the dance floor. He’s got the moves!
Our first full day in Jaipur was jam packed. We started out by exploring the Pink City, which is located within the gates of the Jaipur’s Old City. Within this area all of the buildings were painted pink. The whole city was painted pink by the Indian King, Maharaja Man Singh II, when the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII, visited Jaipur in 1876 AD. What a grand gesture! Today, every home within the city is obliged by law to maintain its facade. It was within the gates of Jaipur’s Old City that we also saw the Hawa Mahal, or the Palace of the Winds. Hawa Mahal was constructed in 1799, at a time when women were not allowed to be seen in public. The Hawa Mahal has 953 small windows called jharokhas. The reason for all the windows was so that royal ladies could watch royal processions and everyday life on the street below without being seen. Here’s a look at Hawa Mahal…
Can you count all 953?
Our next stop was the grand Amber Fort, situated on the cities outskirts. Set at the mouth of a mountain gorge, with a pretty manmade lake below, the view of the fort from the road below is quite picturesque. The present structure known as Amber Fort has several spectacular buildings combining Rajput and Mughal architecture, including a open-air billiards room with a view to die for! It is called a fort, but it was actually a palace to the builder, conqueror Raja Man Singh I, who rule from 1590-1614 AD. We were lucky enough to have luxury transportation up to the fort. After waiting in line for 20 minutes fighting off very persistent hawkers, we hopped on an elephant and made our way from the road up hill and through the fort’s grand entrance. It was Austin’s first time on an elephant, and he quite enjoyed the experience. Once we’d disembarked, we spent an hour or so checking out the grounds of the palace. The variedness and splendour of structural design, along with the view from up top, were simply remarkable! Take a look for yourself…
A look at the fort from the road below…
Our elephant ride up… what a view!
Here we are…
A look at the Palace’s courtyard below…
It really was a beautiful place…
Aus and I out front the palace entrance…
This picture was taken from outside of one of the King’s wife’s residence. The entire place was adorn with mirrors. You can see that even the flowered detail on the walls are mirrors…
This picture was taken from the palace’s bathroom…
Our day of sightseeing was rounded out with a visit to Jaipur’s City Palace, which is a complex that includes the Chandra Mahal and the Mubarak Mahal palaces. The grounds include an array of courtyards and gardens. The Mubarak Mahal has four different residences for the King’s four wives. Yes, four wives! Not all Hindi and Muslims are allowed multiple wives, but throughout history an exception was made for someone as powerful as the King. We were told that the King often had not only Hindi wives, but would often have Muslim and Christian wives as well. I think one wife would be hard enough to impress and keep track of. Imagine trying to stay on top of five or more… and all the religious traditions as well! I guess they had enough people working for them to keep it all straight. After all, they were King! The Chandra Mahal, another section of the City Palace, is significant because it now houses a museum, and more notably, it includes the current residence of India’s royal family. Also, within walking distance is the Jantar Mantar, is a very large observatory built by Sawai Jai Singh.
In this picture we are standing in from of a giant sundial at the observatory…
After a long day of touring, we headed back to our hotel to get some rest, as we were to be up early Thursday for a full day of travel from Jaipur to Agra, where we very much looked forward to getting to see the world renowned Taj Mahal.
We were up bright and early and after breakfast began our drive down to Agra. En route to Agra we visited the Fatehpur Sikri which is an old deserted town of the Mughal Dynasty. It is recognizable for being built entirely of red sandstone. The most interesting aspect for us was the intricately carved walls and pillars. Have a look…
Can you imagine how much time it took to carve out all that detail?
We hopped back in the car and were getting excited for our next stop – The Taj Mahal! Agra, is known as the city of love because it houses this beautiful monument, which is a mausoleum of Shah Jahan’s favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. The Taj took 22 years to complete (finalized in 1653) and is renowned for being perfectly symmetrical and perfectly beautiful. Finished in white marble, we couldn’t adequately prepare ourselves for just how wondrous it would be to see in person. I guess just knowing it is one of the modern day wonders of the world should have been an indication enough, but not even that knowledge prepared us to be as blown away as we were. As we walked through the grand front gate, our first glimpse already had us in awe. See for yourself…
A look at the Taj through Aus’ eyes…
We were told by our tour guide that upwards of 8,000 people visit the Taj each day. We noticed that the large majority of tourists were Indian and were told that there is a dual-pricing system is in place, with a significantly lower entrance fee for Indian citizens than for foreigners. Here are some more pictures from our fabulous visit to the Taj…
A look at the Taj’s symmetrical perfection…
Lovers lovin’ the Taj and all it’s glory…
With sun on his face and love in his heart…
Ta-daaa!
In order to enter the Taj, we again were not allowed to wear shoes. However, instead of having to traipse around barefoot, at the time of purchase they provide you with little red booties you can put over your footwear. Here’s a look at your elf-like shoe covers…
Give a little whistle… tweet-twoot…
Up close and personal with the Taj’s main entrance…
One last shot as the sun begins to set…
After our long day of travel and amazing visit to the Taj, we headed to our hotel where we had a sunset meal on a roof top patio. The patio had a view of the Taj, and was deserted. There’s nothing like a romantic meal with my husband to top off another perfect day.
Another interesting thing we’ve come across while travelling throughout India is that for many seeing “westerners” is somewhat of an anomaly. Countless times Austin and I have been stopped and asked to have our picture taken. Our guide explained that for people coming from rural areas, it is quite something to see a white person in person for the first time, so they want to get a picture with us to take back home to show their friends and family. There was also many times we caught people sneaking pictures of us with their phones or cameras. Between the picture taking and the constant stares everywhere we go, I’ve found myself constantly checking for boogies, or a toilet paper trail, but always to no avail. It’s simply our white skin that is so interesting to them. Go figure. I guess it’s no different from me asking men to take pictures of their turbans, or women for a picture of them in their saris, right? Here are some shots of people who stopped and asked to have their picture taken with me…
You’d think the Taj was much more fascinating… apparently not for this lady!
These girls chased us down out front of Ghandi’s memorial park to have this picture taken…
Well, all this info brings you up to date on the first half of our time in India. We have not had access to the internet, so this is being posted just over a week after we had these great experiences. We also missed by brother Bradley’s 31st birthday, and were not able to communicate with him… so happy birthday big brother! We were thinking about you on the 22nd. We hope all is well with everyone. Keep your eyes peeled for another post coming very soon.
Until next time…
The Knotty Travellers
All the pictures are cool and awesome. It seems the real Indian beauty described in a blog post.
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