With Iraq to the east, Syria to the north, Palestine and Israel to the west, and Saudi Arabia to the south, in Jordan we really are smack-dab in the middle of the Middle East. And with all the current instability in the region, it also means we are right in the middle of a lot of political chaos. This was highlighted last night as we enjoyed our final dinner with our Gap Adventure crew on a roof top patio that was right across the street from where the locals were demonstrating. The barman discretely turned up the music in attempt to drown out the rants of the protestors. It was a very interesting predicament to be in. And though Jordan has been stable up to this point, and we have felt very safe during our entire time here, we are very aware of the domino effect that seems to be spreading across the region and we were glad to be flying out today, ahead of potential further progression of the currently peaceful protests.
Politically, Jordan is a Kingdom and their current King is very popular amongst the Jordanians. However, many of the ministers and other politicians he appoints are not, and the small protests that are occurring in Jordan are out of a desire to begin voting for these positions, rather than having them appointed by the King. There have also been small protests by few who are interested in seeing Sharia Law adopted in Jordan, though from what we can tell, this is very unlikely. There are also some radical groups in Jordan who would like to see many of Jordan’s more progressive stances and policies be repealed, and protests are occurring at many locations for a variety of reasons. We have heard accounts of some protesters requesting the breaking of all cooperative ties with Israel and going back to hostile relations with them, and some equally unnerving accounts of some protesters demanding release of a man who murdered seven Israeli women who snickered at him while he was praying. So there is cause for concern here, and we hope that the more moderate majority is not overpowered by a radical minority, but we shall see how it all develops.As we said, some Jordanians have begun protesting almost as a backlash to all the other demonstration in nearby countries, even though their issues are different, and their countries political situation seems much healthier. We really sincerely hope that in that we don’t read about any major upheaval in Jordan in the weeks and months to come, as we have thoroughly enjoyed the people and our time here, and feel it would be utterly unfortunate.
Historically, Jordan has a lot going on. It is right smack-dab in the middle of the birthplace of some of the world’s biggest religions, Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. The region is still hotly contested amongst those groups today, and its interesting to learn how they all once lived peacefully together in such a small area. This was important territory to many ancient civilisations, and has seen the rule of many different groups such as the Greeks, Romans, Persians, Nebatians, Ottomans, and more. It was an important part of the Silk Route, and has been an important trade route for millennia. It is home to the world’s oldest road, the King’s Way, which is still in operation. It has been the home of many different peoples, most notably the Bedouins, who until very recently have lived a nomadic desert lifestyle for centuries and have managed to survive in one of the most inhospitable environments on earth. Archaeologically, this part of the world is considered the birthplace of modern civilisations, where humankind made the giant leaps forward from the stone age into iron age, and from where humans migrated outward to Europe and other parts of the world. It’s all very interesting and makes for a great visit. There was so much history here that at times we felt we were taking a course on ancient history.
In all honesty, Austin and I were a little unnerved as our arrival to Jordan drew near. With all the current unrest, we really didn’t know how things would be and only hoped for the best. From the moment we stepped foot off the plane, we have been surprised by what we have found in Jordan. The people here are most welcoming and friendly, and as a female, I did not feel particularly uncomfortable, as I had expected. Amman, the capital city holds 3 million of Jordan’s 6 million people and is very liberal. Though 94% of Jordan’s population is Muslim (the other 6% being Christian), it is not common to have arranged marriages and men only have one wife. In fact, unlike other Arab countries, Jordan has a very high divorce rate that rivals North America’s 50%, standing currently around 40%. The women in Jordan are more, shall I say, modern in their attitudes, and though most opt to continue wearing a hijab and dress conservatively, they are fashion conscious like western women. Women here are also given equal opportunities with regards to education, and in general are more respected than we had expected to find.
Jordan is also very unlike other Middle Eastern countries in that it has no major resources – no oil or gas, and not even their own fresh water source. Drought and water shortages are very common here and can be a very expensive problem for the country, one that causes a lot of stress. Rain water is collected by every household and the government-provided water allowance is delivered once a week. If a house runs out, they must either go without, or pay a large sum to be refilled early. It is common for the country to run out, and in those cases they ship it from neighbouring countries at a very high rate. For a country that essentially has nothing, the people live a very nice lifestyle, which means that at some level, the government and the King are doing something right.
Jordan is definitely not on the typical tourist route, and for that reason Austin and I decided to do a group guided tour and went with the Canadian company, Gap Adventures. They came highly recommended by others who had travelled with them. We were not disappointed with our action-packed, comprehensive itinerary, nor were we with our fellow Gap travellers and our fabulous and extremely knowledgeable guide, Ayman. Ayman will be fondly remembered by us all for his relentless teasing of fellow groupie, Paola, as well as for his little quizzes, and for his constant bellowing… “C’mon Gappers” and “Yallah Gap” (‘let’s go’ in Arabic). He was determined to make sure we would see as much as possible in the one week we had in Jordan, which meant many action packed days and strict timelines. We were all prepared to stick to his plan, as we wanted to make the most of our time there.
Our arrival day in Jordan was a free day, so Austin and I set out on our own to explore the city of Amman. Strangely, though many loved ones were worried about us being in this part of the world, we were much more at ease in Amman than in any other city we’ve been to in the last few months. We were perfectly comfortable wandering the streets and when we were unfamiliar with the currency, shop keepers and vendors would refuse to take a nickel more than the asking price, though many times they could have easily gotten away with it. We also found that cab drivers could be trusted, and when they didn’t know the location we needed to get to, instead of driving us around and taking us for whatever money they could, they admitted up front that they didn’t know the destination and suggested we take another cab. Honesty is often hard to find when you’re a tourist in a strange country.
During our exploration of Amman, we checked out the local markets and headed for the Citadel, the Roman Theatre, and the National Museum of Archaeology. As always, pictures speak louder than words, so here is a look at our time exploring Amman city.
A picture of the reigning King, King Abdullah II and his wife Queen Rania
Taking in the views of the city, during what seemed like a wild goose chase as we tried on foot to find the Amman Citadel. You can see the common limestone houses that are very typical Jordanian. Skyscrapers are not welcome here, but they are coming, and many are not happy with the price of economic progress.
Austin and I at the Amman Citadel, which overlooks the city. Your see the Roman amphitheatre in the background…
Some of the ancient ruins at the citadel…
That evening we had our pre-departure meeting and met the other Gap Adventure tourists, who we would have the pleasure of spending the next week with. We were pleased to find that we had a great group including some fellow Canadians and a few international travel companions from Mexico, Japan, Lithuania, and New Zealand. On the first day of our tour we started at Jerash, the site of an ancient Roman city. Jerash is considered one of the largest and most well-preserved sites of Roman architecture in the world outside of Italy. The ruins there are fairly well-preserved, and many elements of a typical Roman city can be found, including one that Ayman had drilled into our heads, the ‘Cardo Maximus’, or main street. Here are a few photos….
Austin standing in the Oval, where the markets would have been…
Austin standing in one of two Roman theatres in this ancient city…
The site of a massive water feature for the ancient city, called the Nymphaeum…
Me in the entrance of the second Roman theatre…
A lecture from Ayman..
Looking down Cardo Maximus, or the main street…
Our next stop was a trip to the Dead Sea which is located in Jordan’s Rift Valley, considered one of the most spectacular natural and spiritual landscapes in the world. It runs all the way down through Africa, and we crossed it also while in Kenya en route to the Masai Mara. This part of the Rift Valley is a famous destination for Christians who undertake a pilgrimage to sites of biblical significance. The Rift Valley is where Mt. Nebo is located and is where Moses is suppose to have died. The Dead Sea itself is very unique as it is considered the lowest point on Earth at 420 m below sea level at entry. It is also of biblical significance because it was on the eastern bank of the Dead Sea that Jesus was supposed to have been baptised. The Dead Sea is also the world’s richest source of natural salts. The excessive salt levels made for fun times! It is difficult to swim, and of course, you easily float to the top. It was interesting, because as you walked out to a point that should be over your head, you could not easily submerse. Instead you ended up floating in the standing position. Very cool! Here are some pictures of our trip through Jordan’s Rift Valley to the Dead Sea.
Yours truly overlooking the Rift Valley…
A view from Mt. Nebo…
What would be chunks of ice at home, are chunks of salt on the shore of the Dead Sea…
Very happy to have found peace in the Middle East…
When in Rome! The dark mineral mud is suppose to do wonders for your skin. They claim it helps with aging, etc. For me, it was just good fun to play with!
We’re covered head to toe! After 15 mins it hardened and we’re free to rinse it off
On our third day in Jordan, we hit the road to head south towards Wadi Musa, the city that houses Jordan’s most famous tourist site – Petra. Petra is a site of incredible architecture that consists of large structures carved into the sand cliffs. En route to Wadi Musa, we stopped at a few more interesting sites, including Kerak Castle, home of crusaders and site of many significant ancient battles. Here’s a shot from the castle.
We arrived late in the day in Wadi Musa, and enjoyed some more typical Jordanian food, not hummus this time, but instead a big messy dish called ‘upside down’, consisting of mainly chicken and rice, and cooked in pot and then turned upside down for serving, so not just a clever name. We all took it fairly easy that night in preparation for the most anticipated part of our tour, the ancient city of Petra. Most of the structures still seen at Petra served as tombs at their time of creation, which was around 6th century BC. We first laid eyes on the most famous site at Petra, The Treasury (made famous in moves like Indiana Jones The Last Crusade), when we joined the ‘Petra by Night’ tour. We were lead by a guide down the pathway lit by candlelight, through the canyon and to the Treasury, which is where we enjoyed some traditional music and stories.
A peak at Petra by night…
The next morning was set aside to explore Petra further, and so we set out bright and early (6:30am) to beat the tourist crowds. Ayman had organized a full day, which included two hikes up Petra’s surrounding cliffs, to ensure we got the best possible Petra experience. Petra is best understood when seen. Pictures will have to do, though they won’t do it justice, as seeing Petra in person is breathtaking.
Walking through the canyon as the sun rises…
Our first glimpse of the Treasury in daylight…
A shot that gives your an idea of the scale and beauty…
Each hole in the cliff is a cave. Bedouin used to live in the caves, and some still do…
Listening and learning from Ayman…
Starting our first ascent up the cliffs, to catch a glimpse of the monastery….
More views of the stunning surroundings on our hike…
The local Bedouin sell goods along the trail, which means they must make the climb each day. Many of them choose to make the journey by donkey…
We finally make the 1000 meter hike, to see this… the beautiful monastery…
The view from the top. Ayman refers to as the view of the end of the earth…
We decided that with these views, this was the perfect place to have our picnic lunch…
Austin with the Jordanian flag and the monastery in the background…
Our second hike of the day was to “The High Place of Sacrifice”…
On the way we were told to make a statue and a wish… we of course made giant Inuksuk…
When we reached the top, I found the sites fascinating… even the sight of a local Bedouin man relaxing and using his cell phone!
Those views!!!
We were able to descend a different way from our ascent, which was equally as beautiful…
After an exhausting, but amazing day touring, we all headed back to our hotel. Austin and I decided to try a Turkish Bath because after a difficult day of hiking, we thought we deserved the treat. Though it did help us to relax, we were both rather disappointed with the overall experience. Maybe when we make it to Turkey one day, we’ll try again.
The next day we headed even further south towards Wadi Rum, where we would be spending the night in the desert. We arrived at our campsite in time to have lunch and then jumped into 4x4 trucks and head out on our desert safari, where we would also enjoy the sunset. Wadi Rum was beautiful, and like Petra has been the film location of many famous films, including Lawrence of Arabia, and the latest instalment of the Transformers franchise. That evening we went on a hike outside of the camp, so that we could chill under the stars in complete darkness, which was really neat. The next morning we woke up bright and early for a camel ride to watch the sunrise. The camel ride sounded amazing, but in actuality it was a bit of a disappointment, as it was not the calm and peaceful experience we had envisioned, but instead more of a quick & dirty novelty ride just to sort of say that we had done it.
After breakfast we had the opportunity to take individual micro light flights over the desert. We had only seen micro light flights a few times, but had never really considered doing it. Micro light flyers are like the kites you see on hand gliders, but in micro light flights, the kite is attached to a small engine. It was a two seated flyer, controlled by an experienced pilot, while we sat open air behind him. The view of the desert from high above was phenomenal. In fact, I was speechless… which doesn’t happen often. Here are some pictures from our amazing time in the Wadi Rum desert…
Out in the Wadi Rum desert we go!
Taking it all in…
Austin of Arabia (in a his Qufia, typical Jordanian headgear) face to face with Alice… thank goodness she was muzzled, or else Aus may have passed out from the smell! Peeee-uuu!
Feeling on top of the world!
Our drivers kindly made us tea (it was cold!) as we all waited for the sun to set…
Sunset in the Wadi Rum desert…
The next morning on our camel ride to watch the sunrise…
All smiles!
Some pictures from our amazing micro light flying experience. Austin geared up and ready to go!
A view from above…
Coming in for his landing…
Another day, another adventure! (if you ever get the chance, take a micro-light flight……so much fun!!!!)
After our time in the desert, we headed even further south to our final destination – Aqaba. Aqaba is a small resort area on the Red Sea. Austin and I spent the afternoon exploring the city. We found the area that seemed to be where the protestors were gathering. It was difficult to tell, because things were quite calm and subdued. In fact, we were so unsure that we decided to walk on and even pass under one of their flags tied between two trees blocking the foot path. It wasn’t until later that evening when we were having dinner across the street from that location and could hear the protests louder and larger in numbers, that we realized that where they were protesting, was where we had past through earlier that day… oops!
Aside from wandering through protests, the highlight for us in Aqaba was getting the chance to do a scuba dive in the Red Sea. We were not disappointed, and had a fabulous afternoon dive seeing an octopus and lionfish, as well as many other fish and colourful coral.
Excited to get into the clear blue Red Sea!
Fantastic Dive in the Red Sea…check!
Unfortunately our time in Aqaba meant the end to our time in Jordan. Our time in Jordan was unforgettable. It was very surprising to find such a variety of activities and landscapes and so much history in one place. We were amazed at how many great things we were able to pack into one week. We can recommend this tour and the country of Jordan to anyone who is curious about that part of the world… and we really hope that it stays safe and peaceful. We appreciated the chance to be in a Middle Eastern country to experience the culture, religion, and way of life, while feeling safe and comfortable. For a long time people have chosen Egypt, but in light of recent circumstances, we suggest to instead head to Jordan. It is extremely affordable, and is more off the beaten track, which for us, makes for more enjoyable travel.
We are now on our way to the Maldives, for a little taste of paradise. So, until next time folks!
Cheers,
The Knotty Travellers
No comments:
Post a Comment